MANUAL OF APPAREL 
DRAFTING AND SEWING 

By Mattie G. Kunz 



U. S. CIVIL SERVICE ELIGIBLE IN 1902, 
AND RECEIVED OFFER OF APPOINT- 
MENT TO A SEWING TEACHER POSI- 
TION IN THE U. S. INDIAN SERVICE 



REVISED EDITION 

Price 60 Cents 

MRS. MATTIE G. KUNZ, Publisher 

Washington, D. C. 



Pn£S6 OF i. O. MILANS 5 SONS 
WASHINGTON. D. C. 



/ MANUAL OF APPAREL 
DRAFTING AND SEWING 

By Mattie G. Kunz ^ 



U. S. CIVIL SERVICE ELIGIBLE IN 1902, 
AND RECEIVED OFFER OF APPOINT- 
MENT TO A SEWING TEACHER POSI- 
TION IN THE U. S. INDIAN SERVICE 



/ / 

REVISED EDITION 

Price ijO Cents 

MRS. MATTIE G. KUNZ. Publisher 

Washington. D. C. 



PRESS OF J. D. MILANS S SONS 
WASHI NGTON. D. C. 



V 



COPYKIGHT, 1013 

Ky mattie g. kunz 



Revised Edition 

copykight, 1014 

By MATTIE G. KUNZ 






DEC3I rb!4 
©CI.A3921U5 V—, 



Preface 

This book is submitted for jniblication willi the confulenee that it will not oiilv ta\-orably com- 
pare with but excel all previous systems of garment drafting-, because of its simplicity, which is its 
best recommendation. It will i)e found that it has not the multiplicity of numbered lines and let- 
tered dots of other systems. The figures shown on the herein eniljodied diagrams simply represent 
actual measurements of work, and one understands what the lines stand for by their position and order 
of measurements. 

This is an age of great factory power, and with electric machinery our ready-made clothing is 
representative of a high type of perfection and civilization; nevertheless, individual effort should 'i*" 
encouraged and maintained, in order to olitain the benelicial results in our homes and in our schools. 
In our homes many physicians are advocating the good of this kind of training, explaining that the 
anatomy of growing children demands well measured and comfortably made clothing, and for their 
delicate female patients, knitting and embroidery are often prescribed, with the suggestion that in 
tranquilizing the spirit the body will invariably respond. 

After learning this garment drafting course, one can dispense with the experience of having to 
serve as an apprentice in a tailoring establishment where there is often obser\ alile among avaricious pro- 
prietors an air of unrefinement and where there is much repetition of the same task to be performed.. 

In illustrating this method of drafting with a series of implements, it will be found that one 
can derive fietter and more satis factorv results for the sewing ])reparation by adopting the minia- 
ture method of drafting, which has the '4 i"ch as its basis, and hereinafter more fully described. 

To prepare for the sewing vocation one should provide the following tools of trade: First are 

the drafting implements made of cardboard and inclosed in the back of this book. Get a little book 

for a "measure book" (see sample measure book in the back of this book), a table, a chair, a thimble, 

different sizes of needles, different numbers of thread, a tracing wheel, scissors, a tape-measure, a 

tailor's iron, a plain and a curved pressing-board, and from 2 to o vards of plain white cotton. It is 

obvious that tailoring cannot lie done without the right kinfl of cloth. Thus by using one of the small 

size implement processes to obtain a pattern (or to work- the solution out for the full -^ize ])attern). 

time, space, and material is saved, and the proper quality and quantity of material can lie afforded, 

and should be procured for teaching purposes. 

Mattie G. Kunz, 

Washington, D. C. 




In this manual of apparel drafting and sewing there is set forth an original order of measure- 
ments, and a series of drafting implements are used. The drafting is developed along arithmetical 
lines, and when understood, the al>ility to draft all kinds of patterns both plain antl fashionable will fol- 
low naturally. The number of measurements taken for all forms is shown l)y the "( )rder of Meas- 
urements" given, and the manner of taking them is learned from a study of the diagram. 

The series of drafting implements with large size curvature pattern are inclosed in the back 
of this book, and are described as follows: The first size implement, which was used to draft the dia- 
grams in this book, represents the J4 i"^"h for the inch, the second size implement represents the y'2 
inch for the inch, and the third size implement represents the full inch. An ordinary ruler, however, 
takes the place of the third size implement, but the curvature is used. Curves may also be drawn by 
free-hand drawing. 

(Jne advantage this system of garment cutting offers is that one can sit at a table, draft the 
small pattern, make the arithmetical solutions, and when finished copy it to produce the large size 
pattern by using the full inch basis implement, as the figures on the small pattern work represent full 
inches. The Yi inch basis implement makes a larger drafting than the !4 inch basis implement, and 
one may prefer to first study with the ^ inch basis implement. The J4 '"^^h basis im]ilenient has 
been used for this book work, because it produced the best size pattern for a book. 

After drafting a pattern by any of the three processes, first see that the pattern is used upon 
the lining of the goods. In drafting make no allowance for seams, but after tracing off each part of 
the pattern allow jX an inch for all seams except at neck and arm-hole. Adopt some symbol on the 
pattern in which the desired thread or weave of the goods in the garment should fall. For instance, 

make a long straight mark thus for the lengthwise of the goods, and a cross mark thus X for 

the crosswise of the goods. Mark an equal number of notches where seams are to be joined; mark 
N. S. (no seam) where the goods should be folded and no seam made. Mark an independent zigzag 
line where the goods should be gathered. These abbreviations will be of great benefit when joining 
the different parts of the pattern together. 



An easy way to draft a basque pattern which is to be cut out first upon the Hning of the goods, 
tried on, and fitted about the arm-hole. The measurements for each form are diiiferent, but the order 
of measurements for all forms is as follows : 



Order of Measurements. 



Basque. 



4 

"c" 

4 



ra 



7 



1. 

2. 

•3. 

4. 

5. 

6. 

7. 

8. 

9. 
10. 
11. 
12. 
13. 



Length of back 15 1/2 inches 

Under- arm 7 

Bust '. 38 

Neck U 

Width of back 14 

Shoulder in length G 

Waist 27 yz 

Entire front measure 15 

Width of chest Uyi 

Shoulder line 8 

Shoulder point 9 

Front test measure 19 2/3 

Around the form over the hips 42 

First study diagram. 

G 




Ill illustration of the !4 i"ch basis implement process, if the Itack length measure is 15i/< 
inches, then y^ of 15J/ inches equals .'i's actual inches for the back length measure anil the starting 
of this very small diagram. 

When using the 3^ inch basis implement jirocc^s, if the back length measure is I.")'., inches, then 
1/2 of 153/ inches is l^j^ actual inches for the back measure. 

To make a practical pattern of the human form, use the full inch process, the work tif which 
is (lone with the ordinary ruler, and the large size curvature, or free hand drawing. The second size 
curvature will sometimes make a prettier curve for this process; if so, then luake use of it. 

Now for a measurement coming in circular, like bust measure, take ','4 of whatever the bust 
measure is; it is :58 inches in this instance; ^4 of iiS inches equals UJl) inches, as is shown on diagram. 

The formula for drafting the easy way to make the basque by any of the three ])rocesses is as 
follows : 

Now get a piece of plain white or Manila paper ; start the drawing about 1 inches from the top 
surface and also 4 inches from the bottom surface. 

Draw a perpendicular line the "length of back measure" from the belt line to the top of neck. 
It is 153/2 inches in this illustration, and 31 an inch of this measure is used for neck curve. Having 
drawn this line, dot from the bottom on the same at a point the "length of under-arnj measure," 
which is T inches, and mark it "B" for bust line. Now draw a horizontal line out leftward from this 
dot "B" the desired back l)ust line, making it 34 of tlit- entire bust measure. < )ne- fourth of :!8 is 1)34 
inches. 

Next draw a horizontal line from top of neck leftward one-sixth of entire neck measure. Al- 
ways as a rule divide the neck measure into six equal portions, the back portion counting for 2/() and 
the front portion counting for 4/(i. Divide this by i in order to draft tliis work on paper. 34 of 2/(> 
is l/(i. 34 of 4 () is 2/(;; therefore, if the neck measure is 14 inches, 1 , (i of 14 inches is 2 l/;! inches, 
for the back neck portion. If 1 '' equals 2 1/3 inches, 2 (i is twice 2 l/.'i inches, which is 4 2/3 
inches, to be used for the front neck portion. Now draw this 2 1 :l inches for the back neck portion. 
Next draw from top of neck the "shoulder in length," which is (1 inches, sloping it to connect with 
the "back width measure," which is 7 inches, or lA of the entire back measure, but first use two imple- 
ments to adjust these measurements to get their required position and then draw the "shoulder in 
length" () inches to meet the "back width measure," which is a 7-inch horizontal line, and begins at first 
perpendicular line. 

Next curve down from left end of "shoulder in length" to within an inch or so above the end 
of 34 of entire bust measure. Now draw the waist to this Ijack the number of inches desired. The 
waist measure is 2734 inches; yi of 2T3-:; inches, in order to draft on paper, is i;!.'4 inches, and Vi of 
]3;'4 inches is l>7,s inches, for waist portion. On the entire one-half waist line there are six parts to 
be considered, namely, the small back, the side-back, the under-arm, the side-front, and the front 
with its dart spaces. Proportion on the ''4 waist measure already drawn — the (i",s inch line — the 
small back, the side back, and the under-arm portion, as desired. In this instance we will proportion 
the small back two inches from first perpendicular line, allowing 34 an inch for body-bearings, the side- 
back 234 inches from small-back, and the under-arm '2]4, inches from side-l)ack. Having dotted on 
waist line for each portion, commence at arm-slope and curve down a proportional width to connect 
at dots on waist line, using curvature on implement, and preserving a somewhat uniform jiroportion 
from tojj to bottom. Mark these portions Figures ], 2, and 3, as shown on diagram. 

Next commence at end of 34 of bust measure, and draw out leftward a horizontal line the 
remaining distance of the bust measure, which is 93I inches in this illustration, and mark the termi- 
nus "B" for bust line. Connect at "B" and draw up an 8 inch perpendicular line, as the lower meas- 
urement (below "B") is 7 inches, and these two amounts of 7 and 8 inches make 15 inches, the "en- 
tire front measure." Draw down from "B" a 7 inch perpendicular line. Next draw a "\arying 



.8 

line" 8 inches upwards (calling it varying line because it varies to meet the requirements of different 
sizes of front neck measures) ; in this instance, presume that it varies 2 inches from the perpendicular 
line, and if not correct, the "shoulder line," the "shoulder point," and the "neck measure" will show 
it, after these latter measurements are drawn by making the arm-hole size too narrow ; then erase 
varying line and adjust it. (Do not draw the varying line too wide, as the arm-hole must not be too 
narrow. A reasonable size arm-hole is to be considered.) Then in every instance use the one-half 
distance of the upper portion from bust line to the top of neck for the "chest measure" ; draw then 
half-way on the varying line a horizontal line the "length of chest measure," which is 754 inches in 
this illustration, and mark "C" for "chest measure" on the half distance of the upper portion from 
bust line to the top of neck. 

Next measure up from the top of varying line for the "front neck curve measure," which in 
our previous neck calculation was found to be 4 3/3 inches, to connect with the "shoulder in length" 
measure, which is 6 inches, using two implements to obtain the proper adjustment ; use curvature of 
implement to draw this 4 2/3 inch front neck measure; now draw the "front neck curve measure" 
4 2 3 inches, and the "shoulder in length" 6 inches. Draw also the "shoulder line measure," which 
is an 8 inch horizontal line from top of varying line, and also draw from top of varying line the 
"shoulder point measure," which is a 9 inch diagonal line. Now draw out the front arm-curve, com- 
mencing at right end of "shoulder in length," to meet the back arm-curve. (Remember that the 
"shoulder line," "shoulder point," and "shoulder in length" are three separate order of measurements.) 

Now commence at waist line at the under-arm portion, and draw waist line, drawing from 
line to line, forming any surplus inches over the waist measure into darts or body-bearings on this 
waist line. In this instance we will make two darts. Space off on this waist line for the side-front, 
which is 3J's inches, and the front with its dart spaces of 1 and 2 inches each, as the darts in this 
instance are made 2 inches wide. The sum of the side-front portion and the front with the dart space 
portion make iws inches, the remainder of the waist measure. Make the darts as high and as low as 
desired, and use curvature to shape them. This work is designated Figure 4 on diagram. 

Below waist line curve out for Figures 1, 2, and 3, to make 34 of hip measure, making the 
small-back portion 2 inches wide, the side-back portion 4'/j inches, and the under-arm portion 4 inches, 
making a total of 10>2 inches, which is y^ of hip measure, and which plus Figure 4, with its IQi/ 
inches, makes 21 inches, or '/j of hip measure, the entire hip measure being 42 inches. The "front 
test measure," which is 19 2/3 inches in this illustration, is indicated by a dotted line on diagram, 
and it determines whether the waist line already drawn should be raised or lowered. This measure 
commences at the highest point by the neck, or top of front neck curve measure, and extends to the 
waist line. In this instance 2/3 of an inch extension below the waist line is required. 

Having finished drafting this basque, if convenient and found desirable, use a red and blue pen- 
cil to show distinctly where to run the tracing wheel in tracing oft' each part of the basque. 

To make a plain Shirt-waist. 

To convert the basque into a plain shirt-waist, lay Figures 1, 2, and 3 on one piece of paper, 
and make the outline for another pattern, eliminating all lines beneath. Lay Figure 4 on another 
piece of paper, eliminating the darts. Draw out two inches extra on the front or back measure for 
the hem for the opening to be made in either the front or back of the waist, as desired, no seam to be 
made in the back if the opening of the waist is to be made in the front, or vice versa. This will make a 
plain shirt-waist pattern. To make a large tuck on each shoulder or tucks in the yoke, tuck the goods 
as desired, place and pin this plain shirt-waist pattern over the goods, and cut out on the goods for 
another style of waist. The goods in each case is to be folded. 



Suggestions regarding the drafting course. 

It is suggested that one study the diagram and work of the easy basque pattern carefully, and 
then produce a pattern for the same order of measurements by the 3<2 inch basis implement process 
and also by the full inch basis implement process before taking up the order of measurements to pro- 
duce a pattern for another form by any of the three processes. 

It is also suggested that a study of drafting alone be pursued for all of the patterns in this 
book until the drafting principles are thoroughly mastered before commencing the cutting of cloth 
and sewing. The use of paper only and not cloth and little pins for pinning the paper seams to- 
gether is recommended for the initial preparation for this trade. Many young boys would perhaps 
like to study the drafting course to become pattern producers when they would not care to become 
cutters and sewers, and it is suggested that they be given a chance to learn the drafting course, if they 
so desire, in order that each student's aptitude for this trade may be ascertained. 

The measurements for boys' and men's clothing are very much fewer than those for girls and 
women, and the measurements of boys' and men's clothing may be taken by the boys or girls and drafted 
after the drafting course in this book has been finished. 



'tp 



Suggestions for economy of cloth. 

As a matter of economy, when the basque has been drafted by the full inch basis process, and 
cut out of plain white cotton, it is suggested that the basque be used as a fitted lining for a home blouse, 
and a home blouse is made by tucking the yoke part of the blouse cloth before fitting it to the basque 
cloth, eliminating in the blouse cloth the darts and back seams which are in the basque cloth, and join- 
ing together the blouse cloth and fitted basque cloth at the side under arm seams and shoulder seams. A 
box plait may also be formed in the center back of the blouse and be stitched only to the waist line, 
allowing the plait to be loose below the waist line. By using the basque as a fitted lining for a home 
blouse in this way the cloth of the basque is not wasted while at the same time the instruction in 
drafting is imparted. 

The first skirt which has been made while learning the first principles of drafting may also be 
used as an undergarment. 

Bust forms are of great advantage to the dressmaker. Regarding the making of a bust form 
see remarks under sewing suggestions in the advanced course. It is suggested that a bust form of 
one's own measurements, by the >4 inch basis implement process, be made, as on this size bust form 
tailoring material may be used and could be afforded, and the art of pressing and buttonholing may 
be learned. 



10 



Sleeve Order of Measurements. 

1. Take inside length of arm at front 18 inches 

2. Top of arm, around it l.j " 

3. From 2/3 the way from inside length of arm measure on top 

of arm measure up to the end of shoulder point measure, as 

shown by the •"> inch dotted line on diagram 5 

4. Elbow, around it 14 " 

.-). Wrist, around it 9 




11 
Sleeve Formula. 

Draw a perpendicular line the "length of front inside arm measure," which is 18 inches. Bi- 
sect this perpendicular line, and draw a horizontal line 2 inches at center of sleeve in every instance. 
Draw a curve line commencing at the top of the ]8 inch perpendicular line down to the end of the 
2 inch line at center of sleeve just previously drawn, and continue down to the bottom of the 18 inch 
jierpendicular line. This cur\e line will measure 10 inches. Now draw out from the top of per- 
pendicular line a 4 inch horizontal line for the under sleeve portion of the top of arm measurement, 
the entire top of arm measurement l)eing l'> inches, and the under sleeve portion always being drawn 
smaller, about 1/3 of the width of the sleeve. Raise drafting implement 3 inches in every case and 
draw down a 4 inch curve line to correspond with the 4 inch under sleeve portion of the top of arm 
measurement line just drawn. Also connect at center portion of sleeve at ID inch curve line and draw 
a ") inch horizontal line for the under sleeve portion of the elbow measure, the entire elbow measure 
being 12 inches. Next draw out obtusely at bottom of wrist ;! inches for the under sleeve portion 
of the wrist measure, the entire wrist measure being inches. Now draw a cur\e line measuring 
22 inches to this under sleeve portion. Draw out at top of arm a horizontal line the balance of the 
top of arm measurement, which is 11 inches, beginning at the 18 inch perpendicular line. Draw out 
for the elbow a !) inch horizontal line, which is the balance of the elbow measurement, beginning at 
the center of this 19 inch curve line. Draw out ol)tusely for the wrist a (i inch line, which is the bal- 
ance of the wrist measurement, beginning at the 18 inch perpendicular line. Now draw a curve line 
measuring 22 inches to this upper sleeve portion. To make a few gathers at the elbow, draw the 22 
inch upper sleeve portion line 2 inches longer at the top, making the upper sleeve portion line 24 
inches, and as the under sleeve portion line measures 22 inches, the difference between the under 
and upper sleeve portion lines is 2 inches for elbow gathers ; and dot off on sleeve at elbow 2 
inches and gather the 2 inch surplus of the upper sleeve portion to meet the under sleeve portion in 
joining these two portions together. Next draw the top of this sleeve, say a curve line measuring 12 
inches, which plus the 4 inch curve line already drawn, makes 16 inches, the arm-hole measurement. 
If gathers are desired in the sleeve at the top, this 12 inch curve line must be drawn longer and the 
top of arm and elbow measurements drawn wider. The surplus inches at the top of arm over the 
arm-hole measurement is then gathered to meet the arm-hole measurement. When setting the sleeve 
in the waist be careful to start the front seam of sleeve about 3^ an inch below "chest measure" line. 
After basting in the sleeve, hold the garment up and observe if the sleeve hangs properly. 

Skirt Order of Measurements. 

1. Around the waist at belt line 27^ inches 

2. Around the hips 42 

3. Down front the desired length 42 " 

4. Down back the desired length 43 " 

5. Down side over the hips 43 " 



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Hip >• 



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13 
Formula for a Two-piece Skirt. 

The waist measure in this instance is 273<2 inches. To draft on paper, use only one-half of 
waist measure, which is 13;>4 inches. Draw this 1334 inch horizontal line for waist line. Then con- 
nect at left terminus of this 13-)4 inch line and draw a perpendicular line down the desired length of 
skirt measure, which in this instance is 43 inches. Now measure six inches down on this perpendicu- 
lar line from the top (as the hip measure is taken six inches below the waist line around the body 
over the hips usually in adults, but the measurement is always taken over the fullest portion around 
the body over the hips on all forms), and draw out a lOyi inch horizontal line of the hip measure 
(which is J4 of entire hip measure, as it is to be a two-piece skirt), for the front portion of this skirt. 
Now draw a curve line commencing at a point Q% inches on waist line, which is J^ of the 13)4 inch 
waist line, as it is to be a two-piece skirt, and curve down six inches to the 10J4 inch hip line meas- 
ure previously drawn and continue down the remainder of the side-skirt measure, which is 43 inches, 
to a point at the bottom which measures 18 inches wide, the entire skirt being 3 yards wide at the bot- 
tom in this case. Now draw a 18 inch horizontal line at bottom of skirt from the 43 inch front skirt 
measure line to the 43 inch side-skirt measure line. (This makes the front half of the skirt, the goods 
being folded.) 

Now connect at the G^s inch point on waist line and draw down an almost straight dotted line 
six inches to hip measure to correspond somewhat with the curve line previously drawn, and continue 
down the remainder of the side-skirt measure, to a point extending out at the bottom 18 inches wide. 
Now draw out the balance of the hip measure, connecting at the (i inch dotted curve line last drawn 
at hip measure, and drawing out a horizontal line 10^ inches, which, with the lOy^ inch line pre- 
viously drawn, makes 31 inches, or jA of hip measure. Now connect at the right terminus of the 
13-j4 inch waist line and drawn down a 43 inch curve dotted line for the back length measure. Now 
draw out for the bottom of skirt a horizontal line 18 inches from 43 inch side-skirt measure line to 
43 inch back skirt measure line. Draw out two inches extra at the top and bottom from the 43 inch 
dotted curve back-skirt measure line, and draw a 43 inch curve line to correspond with the back- 
skirt measure line, for a 8 inch width line, for two stitched pleats of 1 inch each to be made on each 
back-skirt piece, and under which a placket on the left side of the skirt is to be formed. 

(This work represents the back portion of the skirt, the goods being folded). 

Note: The two-piece skirt is worn, but many ladies prefer 3 or 4 gores made in a skirt. 



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9g INCHES 



15 
Formula for Drawers. 

Draw a horizontal line 34 oi waist measure plus 5 inches for gathers. The entire waist meas- 
ure is 27^ inches, % of waist measure is 6% inches plus 5 inches for gathers is 11% inches. 
Measure straight down from waist line over the hips the desired length of the garment. It is 36 
inches in this illustration, and draw this 36 inch perpendicular line. Now use the measurement of all 
around the limb. It is 36 inches in this instance ; divided in order to be drafted on paper, it is 18 
inches, and is drawn a dotted horizontal line beginning from J/4 the distance on first perpendicu- 
lar line. Draw this line. Also draw down from the right end of the llj^ inch waist line to the 
end of the 18 inch dotted line, and continue down to the bottom of this garment to a point which 
measures 9J^ inches wide at the bottom, and also draw this 9^ inch horizontal line to connect with 
the first 36 inch perpendicular line. Make a facing about 2 inches wide on the line which is drawn 
from right end of waist line to the 18 inch dotted line, in order to strengthen this portion of the gar- 
ment. Gather the waist line as follows: Gather up 11 J^ inches and baste it to a belt the 34 of which 
measures 6/8 inches, and continue using the 34 of the belt to the /4 of the goods until the entire belt 
of 2734 inches is taken up. Still another way to finish the belt is to make a hem and use a draw 
string. 

This work represents one-half the garment, the goods being folded. 



--'•^'I- 



Chemise 



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17 
Formula for Chemise. 

Draw a horizontal line 54 of l>ust measure plus 4 inches for gathers, which makes a 13i/^ inch 
horizontal line. The bust measure being 38 inches, ^4 's 9^ inches plus 4 inches for gathers is 13>^ 
inches. Measure for the desired length of garment, beginning from bust measure line ; in this in- 
stance it is 26 inches plus 2 inches for making bottom curve. Next draw out at 2 inches from bot- 
tom of garment from this 26 inch perpendicular line a horizontal dotted line measuring in this in- 
stance 16 inches. Next draw up a 4 inch perpendicular line from bust line on this 26 inch line, and 
draw for top of garment from this last drawn 4 inch line a curve line upward to a height that will 
produce the arm-hole measure; 16 inches being arm-hole measure, yi of it is 8 inches. First draw 
the top of sleeve, make it 3 inches wide, then curve down 8 inches, using curvature on implement. 
Still continue using curvature on implement and draw a curving line down to meet the 16 inch dotted 
line, and curve around at the bottom of the garment to join the extra 2 inch line previously drawn. 

This work represents yi the garment, the goods being folded. 



/ 



18 
To make a Coat. 

There are many different styles of coats. One way to make a coat is by an extenuation of the 
basque. Draw a right angle, thus j , using a red pencil, each line being about 8 inches in length, 
and place neck of the front basque pattern already drafted, which is Figure 4 on diagram, up close 
to the vertex of this right angle, first writing the letter D on the lower left end of side line of the 
right angle, the letter E at the vertex of the right angle, and the letter F at the right end of the top 
line of the right angle. Outline the neck, shoulder in length, and front arm-hole with a blue pen- 
cil ; also outline the front measure, allowing extra fullness for the bust measure and down the desired 
length of the coat, as the coat is an outer garment. Also outline the bottom of the coat and side un- 
der-arm seam. Now with blue pencil draw from letter F on right angle straight down a proportion- 
ate width (this blue line is to be cut out for a seam), passing between the darts of the bascjue pat- 
tern to the desired length of the coat. Use the tracing wheel to produce the coat pattern over the 
blue pencil lines recently drawn, and one now has two portions to cut out of this transformed basque 
front, which is Figure 4 on diagram. If the material is wide, with no apparent grain in the cloth, 
the following is a good way to operate : Having cut the pattern in two portions, as above stated, lay 
a plait in the goods along the line made from letter F on right angle to the desired length of the coat, 
allowing~the plait in the material to flare from the bust line, and if a close-fitting coat is desired 
omit this plait entirely, but if the material used is of soft quality, it would be particularly appro- 
priate for the material to flare from the bust line. A silk or satin yoke (either plain, or plaited, and 
should be trimmed around the edge) formed upon the coat over the seam above the bust line would 
be very appropriate. A circular yoke pattern may be obtained for this coat by holding a cord or 
linen tape measure at the vertex of the right angle and swing with right hand from letter D to 
letter F, using blue pencil, and if a pointed yoke is wanted, which perhaps many would most fancy, 
connect at letter F on right angle and draw down to the front bust line, cutting out around the cir- 
cular or pointed yoke at the neck to make it fit the coat already drafted. 

The same procedure as was used for making the front coat pattern is followed for making 
the back coat pattern. For drafting the back of the coat pattern, however, draw the right angle thus 
j , placing the neck of the basque pattern as above stated. If the side seams under the arms ap- 
pear to be too much on the bias of the cloth, goods for a plait will have to be inserted in the front 
and back seams from the bust line, thus making three portions for the front coat pattern and three 
portions for the back. The third extra portions for the front and back coat patterns are made in 
order that the grain of the cloth will find itself properly. 

Any style of collar may be adopted for this coat. Two diagrams of coat collars are given 
in this book. Either sleeve pattern as shown in this book may be used. 



19 



Advanced Course. 
Order of Measurements. 

Basque. 1. Length of back . 14>^ inches 

2. Under arm '^ 

3. Bust measure 46 

4. Arm-hole 18 

5. Arm-curve of arm-hole This measure is 

solved later 
arithmetically. 

6. Width of back l'^' inches 

7. Shoulder in length 5.)4 

8. Neck measure I*' 

9. Waist measure 34 

10. Width of chest 16 

11. Entire front measure 13 J^ 

13. Shoulder line '^'5^ 

13. Shoulder point 8J^ 

14. Front test measure 1'''/^ 

15. Hip measure, around the form in adults about fi inches 

below the waist line 50 

Sleeve. 1. Take inside length of arm at front 1''' 

2. Top of arm, around it 16 

3. From 3/3 the way from inside length of arm measure 

on top of arm measure up to the end of "shoulder 
point measure" 6 

4. Elbow, around it 13 

5. Wrist, around it H 

Skirt. 1. Around waist at belt line 34 

2. Around the hips 50 

3. Down front to the desired length 42 

4. Down back to the desired length 44 

5. Down side over the hips 43 

The fifth order measurement is obtained as follows: First draw a circle, applying an arithmeti- 
cal rule, viz. : Rule for finding the diameter of a circle, the circumference being given and expressed 
as arm-hole measurement. To do this, divide by 3 (omitting the decimal .1410 as stated in arithmeti- 
cal mensuration), then divide by 3, for the radius. Then use yi of the radius estimate for the arm- 
curve of the arm-hole measurement of this symbolical circle in every case. Thus if the arm-hole is 
18 inches, divided by 3 is fi, the diameter; divided by 2 is 3, the radius and '/' the radius is 1J.<^ inches. 
Then use % the radius in every case. In the diagram illustration it is 1^2 inches, which is V2 the radius 
The table showing arm-curve drafting measurements is given for further illustration and convenience. 



20 



If arm-hole is 12 inches in circumference make line upward 1 inch. 
If arm-hole is 13 inches in circumference make line upward Ij/ inches. 
If arm-hole is 14 inches in circumference make line upward 1 3/13 inches. 
If arm-hole is 15 inches in circumference make line upward 1J4 inches. 
If arm-hole is 18 inches in circumference make line upward IJ/ inches. 
If arm-hole is 20 inches in circumference make line upward 1 2/3 inches. 
If arm-hole is 24 inches in circumference make line upward 2 inches. 



Basque Diagram. 



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21 

In illustration of the 34 '•'"-'li basis implement process: If the back length measure is liyi inches, 
then J4 of IJ/i inches equals S-f4, actual inches for the back length measure and the starting of this 
very small diagram. 

When using the y> inch basis implement process, if the back length measure is 14 3< inches, then 
yi of l-t/'i inches is 754 actual inches for the back measure. 

Now for a measurement coming in circular, like bust measure, take % of /^ fo produce bust 
line for Figure 1. Bust measure is 46 inches; the regular 34 drafting being 23 inches and which is 
all the work that can be done on paper, then j4 oi 23 inches equals 5^ inches, for the bust line of 
Figure 1. If % equals 5;y4 inches, 2/4 is twice 5^4 inches, which is 1134 inches, for the bust line 
of Figures 2 and 3, as shown on diagram. (See two luilettered dots on diagram.) 

When ready to draft refer to basque diagram, which represents the work done with the 34 
inch basis implement, but the figures thereon, as heretofore stated, represent full inches. Notice that 
the waist line is very straight around in this certain form, but the "front test measure" always de- 
termines whether an extended waist line comes in the front. An extension also in the "back meas- 
ure" below the waist line may sometimes occur on other forms when it is necessary to reduce the 2/3 
estimate in the "back length measure" in order to make fit better the arm-curve portion. 

To make a practical pattern for the human form, use the full inch process, the work of which 
is done with an ordinary ruler, and the large or second size curvature, or free hand drawing. 

The formula for drafting by any of the three processes is as follows: 

Get a square piece of Manila or ordinary wrapping paper (drafting paper may be joined with 
mucilage and brush, but an unbroken piece is the neatest), start the drawing about 4 inches from 
the top surface, and also 4 inches from the bottom surface. Now draw a perpendicular line the 
"length of back measure," from the belt line to the top of neck. It is 1434 inches in this illustration. 
Having drawn this line, dot from the bottom on the same at a point the length of "under arm meas- 
ure." It is 7 inches in this case. Make dot and mark it "B" for bust line. Next draw a horizontal 
line out leftward from this dot "B," the desired back bust line, say 34 of the "entire bust measure." 
34 of 4fi is 1134 inches. Dot again on this first line at a point the height of the supposed back side- 
body curve. It usually commences where the first seam in the back must be joined in the arm-hole. 
This estimate must be ascertained for each form by correctly taking the "arm-hole measure," which 
is 18 inches in this illustration, and using a symbolical circle as follows: Now draw a circle, the cir- 
cumference of which must equal this measurement, 18 inches. But the arm-hole is not circular, it is 
oval shaped. How get the curve of this oval-shaped portion? By finding and using 31, the radius. 
18 inches is the circumference, the diameter is G, the radius 3, y^ of 3 is 134' inches for the "arm-cur\-e 
measure." 

Now draw leftward a horizontal line from "A" for the "width of the liack measure." It is 
734 inches in this illustration. Now divide the remaining distance of the "back length measure" into 
thirds, and dot at 2/3 the way up from "A" and draw leftward a horizontal line parallel with "A" line, 
and the same measure. This line will meet at junction of "shoulder line measure," when it is drawn 
later. 

Next draw a horizontal line from top of neck leftward, say 1/G of "entire neck measure" 
(curve it out yi inch). One-sixth of Kl, the "neck measure," is 2 2/3 inches. 

( Always as a rule divide the "neck measure" into 6 equal portions, the back portion counting for 
2/6, and the front portion counting for 4/6. Divide this by 2 in order to draft this work on paper. 
34 of 2/6 is 1/6. 34 of 4/6 is 2/6, therefore, if the "neck measure" is 10 inches, 1/6 of 16 inches is 
2 2/3 inches for the back portion. If 1/6 is 2 2/3 inches, 2/6 is twice this, which is 5 1/3 inches, to 
be used for the front neck curve.) Next draw from neck terminus the "shoulder length measure" 
53/4 inches, and the back-body arm-curve 4 inches in this illustration. 

Now draw waist to this back the number of inches desired ; proportion the same according to 
the waist measure ; for there are six parts to be considered, namely, the small-back, the side-back, the 
under-arm, the side-front, and. the front with its dart spaces (refer to diagram). 



22 

Now to draw this very small-liack waist portion ( remember the entire waist measure is 34 
inches), always divide in order to put half drafting on paper, and proportion this work as repre- 
sented in the diagram, and draw this small-back portion 2^ inches, allowing }-2 an inch to be deducted 
in the body-bearings. Finish with a curve blue line; it is dotted on diagram. Use drafting imple- 
ment curvature ; use it not fixedly but movably. Draw this curvature from "A" line down to waist 
line. 

This illustration is shown on diagram, designated Fig. ]. 

Now draw fac-simile but red line, marked zigzag line on diagram, from "A" line down to waist 
line. Draw out on waist line say 2^^ inches in this illustration. Now proportionately draw a blue 
line upwards, marked a dotted line on diagram, and ascending the "arm-curve measurement" draw 
to the right lyz inches. (Remember that the next side-body must be drawn 2y2 inches to the right, 
thus leaving a balance for the front-arm piece.) 

This illustration is designated on diagram, marked Fig. 2. 

Next draw a red curve line marked on diagram zigzag line, like last back-side body ; also draw 
out at waist line 4J4 inches in this illustration. Now draw a straight temporary line upward a propor- 
tional width to a point, the "under-arm measure," which is 7 inches. Now draw at the terminus of 
the J4 of the whole bust measure, J% showing on drafting, a curve line at the top 2J^ inches to the 
right for arm-curve, and erasing temporary line, curve down from the terminus of y^ of bust line to 
waist line, using blue pencil ; it is marked dotted line on diagram. 

This illustration is shown on diagram, marked Fig. 3. 

Begin and draw a slightly curving red line, marked on diagram zigzag line, up from left end 
of 4J^ inch;iwaist portion line to arm curve, the same as drawn in Fig.' 3. It is 7 inches, and it is 
the "under-arm measure." Next draw leftward the remaining distance of the bust measure, which 
is y^ of the entire bust measure, or 11J4 inches, starting this line from the top of the "under-arm 
measure" line just previously drawn. (Observe on the diagram, in this instance, that the bust-lines 
lap under the arm for this certain form.) Having drawn the remaining distance of the bust-line 
measure, dot and mark the terminus "B" for bust-line. 

Having assumed that the oval-shaped portion of the arm is one-half of the arm-hole meas- 
urement in every case, and which in this illustration is 9 inches, and as the oval-shaped portion al- 
ready drawn in this instance measures 4 inches, then 4 inches minus 9 inches is 5 inches, for the re- 
mainder of this oval-shaped portion, but 5 inches is found to be 1 inch too much, to be true to the 
arm-hole measurement, which in this illustration is 18 inches, but this oval-shaped portion, as here- 
tofore mentioned, can be decreased or increased in order to secure a good fit, but the bust line can- 
not, and the arm-hole measurement must also be true. So then draw the next body-piece-curve 4 
inches, beginning this line from the top of the under-arm measure line (making the entire oval- 
shaped portion in this instance 8 inches), curving this line lYi inches in altitude (as ascertained in 
each case for the 5th order of measurements), and dotting it at top terminus. This is a zigzag line 
on diagram. 

Having dotted at our last procedure, draw a horizontal line leftward from this arm-curve dot. 
This line is a continuation of "A" line; draw it >4 of "chest measure" (>4 of 16 is 8), now mark the 
terminus "C" for "chest measure." Next draw a line from "B" line straight up to the top of neck, 
or collar bone, 6 inches, which line is gaugeable but represents part of the "entire front measure." 
Also draw another line, calling it "varying line," because it varies to meet the requirements of different 
sizes of front neck measures. In this instance presume that it varies 1 inch and if found not cor- 
rect, the length of the "front neck curve measure" and the "shoulder line measure" will show it, after 
these two latter measurements are drawn, and then erase the "varying line" and adjust it. Next 
draw out the "shoulder line measure," which is a lYi inch horizontal line drawn from the top of 
"varying line"; also draw out the "shoulder point measure," from top of "varyiiig line," 8^,4 inches 



23 

to a point which is the remaining distance of the arm-hole measurement, and in this instance is 6 
inches. Next consider how to ch^aw the neck curve, and in our former neck calculation we have 
founii it to be 5 1 , 3 inches. Draw it out, using curvature of implement. 

Next draw a straight line up from this G inch gaugeable line, naming it "New line." Draw it 
always in length the difference between the "entire front measure" (which represents the 10th order 
of measurements), and the "front test measure" (which represents the Mth order of measurements). 
The front test measure commences at the highest point on the shoulder by the neck, and extends to 
waist line. The former measure (of the 10th order), is 1:3)2 inches, and the latter measure (of the 
14th order), is 17J^ inches. This "New line," therefore, must be drawn the difference between the 
last two order of measurements, which is -1 inches. Draw it. Another way to find the front neck 
curve is as follows: Let this new 4 inch line just mentioned be the vertex of a right angle, which 
calls for another equal line. Draw it. Now swing tap'e from this vertex and it will produce the 
front neck curve, less the "varying line space," which shows 1 inch in the diagram illusrtation. 

Next draw the "shoulder in length"; it is o-}^ inches, drawing from top of 5 l/;3 inch front 
neck curve line to right end of 8^ inch "shoulder point measure" line. (Remember that the ".shoul- 
der line," the "shoulder point," and the "shoulder in length" are three separate order of meas- 
urements.) Next examine the arm-hole measurement; sum up and deduct the previous arm-curve 
work from full arm-hole measurement, which in this illustration is 18 inches. The result will give 
the measure for the front-arm-body-piece. Draw it. Now connect at "B" and draw a perpendicular 
line down 7^ inches to waist line, which, with the G inch "varying line" jjreviously drawn, makes 13)^ 
inches, the "entire front measure." 

Again draw out on this diagram the front waist line, drawing from line to line. Now consider 
how to center the darts, or no darts, but body-bearings. In this case we will make two darts. Pro- 
portion them nicely. First count up the back and two-side body waist line measurements, and deduct 
same for the front waist line ; this procedure will show the correct waist line, and the number of 
inches to be placed into darts and body-bearings. Illustration: If back and two-side-body waist lines 
add nine inches, and the entire waist measure is 34 inches, then ^i of 34 is 17 inches, and the back 
and two side-bodies add 9 inches, then 9 inches minus 17 inches, is 8 inches wanted for front waist 
line. Now 'this straight waist line measures 11 inches; then put the difference between 8 and 11 
inches, which is 3 inches, into darts and body-bearings. Dot at y^ an inch for body-bearings, dot for 
2 inches, dot for small dart ; space again, say 1 ' inches ; dot again for dart an inch and one-half, 
making a total of 3 inches in darts and body-bearings. Then make the darts as high and as low as 
desired, and use curvature to shape them. To make drafting below waist line, bear in mind the swell 
of the "hip measure." It is 50 inches in this illustration. Now having finished the drafting, do not 
forget to make the notches on bust line, and as shown on diagram. These notches are made in each 
case as an aid in keeping the bust line true when basting the cloth seams together. 

This work is designated on diagram, marked Fig. 4. 

In tracing oft" this pattern, allow yi an inch for all seams except at neck and arm-hole, but be- 
fore doing this take implement or tape measure (it not having been stretched), and go over the work. 
If any discrepancies are found, make thein conform to first original measurements. This painstak- 
ing in the review of the drafting process is a test, something like taking a trial balance in book- 
keeping. 

Observe on diagram the two body-portions measuring 4M inches each. Now if an extra side- 
body is preferred add these two portions, making 9, and divide by 3. Then make 3 body-pieces in- 
stead of 2. Another situation will sometimes occur in drafting for stout ladies, to be true to the 
bust-line the arm-hole will come too large. To alleviate this fullness, fasten a plait in the lining of the 
goods, or cut out this defect from the pattern, having previously drafted for it. 

This situation is shown on third diagram herein. 





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For Drafting a Standing Collar. 

Draw a straight line in length >4 of neck measure. It is 3^ of 1(J inches in this illustration. 
Draw on the right, and also on the left of straight line lines in altitude 3>2 inches, or more if desired. 
Draw the top line ^^ of neck measure. Use drafting implement and draw lower curve in this space 8 
inches, and upper curve 7 inches. For a coatshaped collar, use the neck measurement previously 
drawn. (See diagram.) 



•• Formula for Sleeve. 

Draw a perpendicular line the measure of "inside length of arm at front." It is 17 inches -in 
this case. Draw rightward from the top of this IT-inch perpendicular line a horizontal line the meas- 
ure of "top of arm." It is Ki inches here. Now draw downward and across, forming a rectangle. 
Dot rightward from first 17-inch perpendicular line at Yi plus 2 inches of the way on top l()-inch line. 
I^ot on the first 17 -inch perpendicular line Yi the way for the elhow measurement, which is a 1.3-inch 
horizontal line, and draw it. Find the diflference between the top of arm measure and the elbow 
measure, and use the difference for the elbow curve, as shown on diagram. The dift'erence between 
Hi and Ki is 3, divided for each side of the sleeve is 1^4 inches. Use drafting implement and curve 
out 1' j inches on each side of sleeve for sleeve line, as shown on diagram. Draw a curved line 
obtusely down to the right from about 2/3 the way on 13-inch horizontal line from the right 17-inch 
perpendicular line to a distance about 5 inches below bottom of Ki-inch horizontal line and continuing 
a line 8 inches long upward to the bottom end of the right 17-inch perpendicular line; also draw a 
sinfilar curved line obtusely down to the left, beginning also at about 2 3 the way on 13-inch horizon 
tal line from the right IT-inch perpendicular line, to a distance of IJ-j inches below the bottom of 
l(i-inch horizontal line and contiiuung a line upward 3 inches long to the bottom end of the first 
K-inch perpendicular line. These 2 portions of 8 and 3 inches make 11 inches, the wrist measure- 
ment. (See diagram.) The right or upper sleeve portion line (measuring 8 inches wide at bottom), 
is drawn longer than the left or under sleeve portion line (measuring 3 inches wide at the bottom), 
in order to allow for gathers at the elbow. The right upper portion is to be gathered at elbow when 
joining the upper and lower portions together. Having dotted at J^j the way, plus 2 inches on first 
]()-inch horizontal line, proceed and draw Yz a circle thereon. The radius of this circle will be 6 
inches. Swing tape to get this circle, and finish out the circle measurement on the left side with a 
cur\-ed line to connect with the left end of the top Ki-inch horizontal line. 

The Skirt. 

The skirt formula has been previously given in this book. This drafting is, however, done on 
the same principle as the lower part of the basque. Dot on the waist line f(jr the front piece, side- 
gores, and the back. Refer to "measure book," and this drafting will not be troublesome, if pre- 
pared with a high, long table. 

Next commence the study of the remaining diagrams. The third basque diagram represents the 
pattern for a stout lady. The fourth diagram represents the pattern for a doll. 

Find and place the measurements of the diagrams in their proper order. Neck, waist, bust, 
under-arm, and the back are given in the third diagram, but commence the study, using the 1st, 2d, 3d, 
■1th, 5th, Gth, 7th, 8th, 9th, 10th, 11th, 12th, 13th, 14th, and 15th order of measurements. 

Sewing Suggestions. 

A practical way to learn to dress-make is to draft an exact pattern of a person and cut it out 
of very strong cloth, and sew it closely on the sewing machine. Cover the neck and arm-hole open- 
ings, and press in cotton or excelsior. After this is done, close the bottom of the form with paste- 
board and cloth, and place this form on a stand measuring downward the balance of the form meas- 
urement. This will make a fair model for dress-making and designing purposes. 

Sewing Definitions. 

Cloth is known by its fiber. It is also called fabrics or textiles. Cloth is designated when it 
comes to the making as the "lengthwise," the "crosswise," the "bias," and the "selvedge." The weave 
and the woof are the cross threads worked upon the loom by the weaver. The weave side is visibly 
seen in woolen goods, and in carpets, generally known as the wrong side of cloth. .\ seam is two 
pieces joined together by stitching. A fell is a seam with one side so held as to overlap the other, 
and then be stitched neatly down. 



26 

A tuck in cloth is like a seam except the desired width of tuck is worked upon cloth uncut, and 
pressed flatly down. 

A gusset is an angular piece of cloth used at the terminus of a seam, to give strength and finish. 

To mend a rent, use a piece of cloth back of it, and darn neatly and smoothly down. 

A gather is a large piece of cloth proportioned to meet a smaller one. 

To press seams, dampen with luke warm water and use a heated iron not very heavily. 

To bone a dress requires care and patience. Whaleboning is usually overseamed by hand, and 
placed in all the lower waist line seams. Featherboning is often done with a sewing machine at- 
tachment. 

Binding is used for the bottom of skirts, or anything that is to be bound. 

Popular names of cloth : Broadcloth, Serge, Silk, Satin, Brocade, Grenedine, Cashmere, Scotch 
Plaids, Cheviots, Oxfords, Meltons, Tweeds, Corduroy, Velvet, Velveteen, Panne, Chinchilla, Messe- 
line. Crepe-de-chine, China Silk, Chiffon, TafTeta, Albetross, Cotton. Linen, Cotton Flannel, Flan- 
nelette, Delains, Chalice, Gingham, Paqua, Challies, Batiste, Dimities, Lawn, Indian Lawn, Swiss, 
Tarlton. 

Woolen and Henrietta goods are obtained in the following colors : Cream, rose, red, cardinal, 
shell, pink, light blue, nile, sapphire, orange, pink, marine blue, cadet blue, green, brown, mulberry 
drab, chocolate, slate, bronze, cerise, garnet helio, canary, plum, russet, black, and etc. 

Linings : Cambric, percale, selicia, sateen, haircloth, shrunk canvas. 

Stiflfenings : Crinoline, linen duck, wigin, buckinrum. 

Trimmings: Lace, ribbon, buttons, buckles, braid, fringe, jet. 

Passementerie : Knife-plaiting, accordion-plaiting, pinking, applique work. 

Fancy stitching: Edging, embroidery, insertion, tticks, and etc. 

The following is an example to solve : How many models can one get of two sizes out of a 
sheet of press-board measuring 24 x 32 inches, the larger model measuring 11x5 inches, the smaller 
one 5J4 X 2^4 inches respectively. To make an equal number of them, how many can one get? An- 
■ swer : -9 of each kind. 

Then how many sheets of press-board will one have to buy to make 9i_)9 models each? Answer: 
111 the number of sheets. 

Will this example bring the same result by arithmetic as by diagram ? Illustrate it by diagram, 
using the j4-inch basis drafting implement, which has heretofore been designated as the unit for one 
inch. 

Having solved the above example, how many models can be cut of cloth, each laid on the 
lengthwise fold of the goods? Answer: 8 large ones and 11 small ones. 

If 999 models of press-board of each size cost $20.00, what is the average cost of these two 
models of unequal size? Answer: 1 cent. 

Example by plain arithmetic : How many models can one get out of a piece of cloth measuring 
12 yards long and 54 inches wide, model being 3 inches wide and (i inches long? Solution: 12 yards 
equals 432 inches ; divided by 6, equals 72 lengths, oi inches, divided by 3, equals 18 widths. Length 
multiplied by width, 72 x 18, equals 1,29(5 models — the answer. 



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This garment is drawn on a scale of l/s of an inch to -represent the inch, as the draft- 
ing will fit the 6iz6 of the book. The l/4 inch basis only is recoraraendad for study 
purposes. To make a large pattern use the figures on this diagram as actual inches. 
If the goods is white, eo that the drawings will show on the goods it will not 
then be necessary to make a pattern. Drawn according to the principles of copyrighted 
Ua.n\xal of Apparel Drafting and Sewing, by 

Piirs. KLattie G. Kunz. 
Ueasurements . 

Waist 30 inches — For high waist 33 inches. 
Hip 47 " 

Front length - -42 inches 
Side " - -43 " 

Back " — 43 " 

liay be nade habit back, or with inverted pleat. 



To produce a fashionable flare ruffle to be attached to a waist and worn with 
skirt, draw a circle the circumference of which equals the waist measure, and divide 
circurnferance or waist measure by 3 to get the diameter, then measure down from this 
circle the depth of the ruffle desired and dra.v the second circle around the first 
circle. If- there is more fullness than desired cut the pattern at the front and trim 
it off. A cuff may be produced in the same manner. 







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Goods to be 
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43 



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Usike 4 straps 22 in. long. 



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-|- of belt 24 inches long. 




Drawn on a -scale of l/S of an inch to 

represent an inch. To make big pattern 

use the fi'giires on this diagram. 

Drawn according to the principles of 

copyrighted Manual of Apparel Drafting 

and Sewing, by 

Mrs. Mattie G. Kunz. 



Fashionable coat for a lady whose 

measurements are; 

Bust 40 inches. 
Waist- 28 " 
Neck - 14 " 

Straps to be stitched over each 
shoulder to the wedst line with an 
opening allowed for the belt to 
pass under. 



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This garment is drawn on a scale of l/S of an inch to represent the inch, as it is for 
book presentation. To make a large aize pattern use the figures on the drafting as 
inchesr. If the goods is whit© so that the drawings will show on the cloth 
it will then not be necessary to make a pattern. Dravm according to the principles 
of copyrighted Manual of Apparel Drafting and Sewing, by 

Mrs. ^^attie G. Kunz. 

Princesa dress. 




Lleasuremeiita. 

For this style of dress and 
for front portion use these 

measurements. 
First draw length of front 

waist, which is as follows: 

Front — 15 inches. 
Front bust -- 10|- " 
(Entire bust being 40 inches) 

Under arm — 8 inches 
Front waist 6-7/3. 
(Entire waist being 27^- inches) 



Chest 8 inches. 

Shoulder line 8^ inches. 
Shoulder point-- 9 inches. 



Front neck 4-2/3 inches. 
(Entire neck being 14 inches.) 
Shoulder in length 6 inches. 
Front arm curve 11, back arm 
curve 5 inches. 

Back width measure 7 inches. 
Back length 15 — " 

tlip measure — 53 " 

Front skirt length - - 42. Inches. 
Side " " — 42 " 

Back " " ~ 42 " 

Any style of sleeve shown in this 
book may be used in this 

Princess dress. 



Goods to be doubled in each piece in this dresa. 




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OKRWN (^CCOKOlNGTOTHE 
PRINCIPLES OF COPXRHGHTEO 
niANURL OF RPPOKEU ORBFTUJO 
f^NO "DEWING B'f 

MksMattieG Kunz. 



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\NFRr>iT5 cRp RNo Pinning petticopvt age iyr. 



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INFRNT5 CLORK WITH CaPE 

OKnwN e\CCORO»N& TOTHe PRINCIPLES OF COPYRIGHTED riRNURl. 
OFRPPRRtL DKRFTlNGr R N D SE-WING SY 



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ORRWN accORDlNC- TOTHE PRINCIPLES 
OF COP'TRIC-HTED riANUBL OF BPPflrfEL 
ORftFTiNC- F\ND SEWING SY 

Mrs MF\1TiE G KUNZ. 



&0OO5 "TO BE DOUBLED 
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ORfWJN BCCOROiNGTOTHEPRlNClPLES OF COFrR*GHT£0 nftNUFVL OF RPPPlKETL. 

DKBFT\NG BNO Sewing by 

MR& Mrttie G V<utsz 



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TO BE SUPPED ON OVER HERO, RnO 
PiNO BEMPiDE WITH SETOVER. yoke: 
OKW\THOUTYOKE 




5 INCHES FOR 
■SPPi CE 



LRY BOX PLRIT5 FIRST RNO 
Bft5TE THE GflRMENTTO&ETHEK., 
ANO IN FITTING- CUT THE SURPLUS 
GOODS FROM THE UNDER HRM 

GBRMENT aKOuNOTHE RRI^ 
CURVE IF NEEOEO 



FKON-r POR"r>ON GOODS TO BE DOUBLED 



SKIRT LENGTH FBOrM BOX PLRIT IS FROM 
II TO \a INCHES 



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DRAWN (-^CCOF?DlNGTO THE PRINCIPLES OF COPYRIGHTED MRN URL OF OPPRREU 
DRRFTING f^NO SEWING BV 

MRS Mrttie G Kun:z. 



TT516- 



BRCK PORTION OP 

TO BE" MBOE W\TH OK WITHOUT 
VOKC 



5HEETN? ^ 




DKBWN RCC0KO\NG TOTHEPKlNC\PLe5 OF COPYRlGHTeO MRlNURLOF BPPrtKEL- 
DKflFTiNG RNO SEWING BY' 

Mrs Mbttie G Kun2: 



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9M0CKINQ: 

CRER^E: for 6*5I^BLL tucks, ''jTITCHING 15J AND 2'^°TUCV-i5 
TOGLTHERBNO 5«D P\NO 4"'-'^ TO G ETHER> flNO 5'" RN O C^-" 
TOGtTHEK IN P\ STRniGHTLlNE fiCROSS flNO 5TiTCH ?.y° 

ONO 3"?° TUCKS T0GErHEK|4-11."nND 51" TOGETHER, ABOUT 
'/2, ON INCH BELOW FIRST 3 CBuGMTS, R5 MBRKS HMOICnTET . 

REPERT if P\n0 S'i° MeTriODS CONTlNUltsG OOvs/M WRRO TO 
THE 0E5ir?E0 LENGTH, OK.THE BLOUSE BNO SLEEVE MAT 
BETUCKEO.RS PREFERRED. 



BLOUSE FRONT FORTIQM B LOUSE BOCK PORT\ON 

CENTERFRONT. ..\^IN. BBCKLENGTH 

FRONT NECK, INCLUDING NECK.VNCLUOinG 

YOKE. 3''2;N. ^nOCKlNO 

(Ets-r\RE rNECK,").. .._ 11 IN. 13UST_ ., 

t3U5T- .-. G IN SHOU UOEIR LENGTH. 

(Entire BUbT).. 2.4 iN Pifci^ holE" . 

SHOOuOER LENGTH b''''T-lN UNDER FIRt^ „_ . 

BRn HOLE._- _6 ?^IN WRIST . 

VJNOERBRM Q,'iZ\H. BOTTOM BLOUSE 

^.Vf^lST 6 IN. 

(entire wrist). ZA IN. 

60TTC(^ 3L0USE 14 IN. 



15 ''2 .N 

. I '''i- IN 
.6 IN 

. 5'/4 IN 

G rM 
. f1 iN, 



/3 



' 2 




Little Boy's Breeches. Age 2 years. 

These two pattern portions are to be joined together 

to make one leg. Notches shoyv 'Arhere to join. 



I I 

Po^et 

Front portion. 




Measurements: 

Front foundation line 13 inches. 

Side length — 13|- inches. 

Join the two center fronts with seam. 

•loin the two center backs with sean. 

Work four button-holes at the front, also 

work four button-holes at the back. 

Drawn according to the principles of copyrighted Manual of 
Apparel Drafting and Sewing, 

by 

Mrs. Mattie G. Kunz. 



nEN5C0ft-T FRONT POK-f 



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LENGTH FRONT FACNC 3* 2- «N 

W>OTHB0lTOn FACING. V.N 

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MftKE 5 INCHES I '^ 

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FRONT POKTVON 
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„Ea5uRE>^ENT5 FOR FRONT TORT^ON 
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3UNOE«.l=>R'^ I^IN 

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^BRt-i CURVE ^^^^ 

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P1RKE LIN (NG, PATTERN SV U51N& TRflC ING WHEEL- OVEKTHEL OFRFTINC 
FIRST Pl-flCING- FOPERUMOCKNEBTK ORaFTlNG FOR TH 15 POTTERN. 



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CfOOOS TO i3E DOUBLED 



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PRINCIPLES OF COPyRIGHTED MRN UBL O F BPF'B RE'L OKBf^TlNG. 

AND Sewing i3v mr5 mrttie: G kunx 




riERS.UKEr^EMTS EOF; SACK POKTION 
1 LENGTH OF CENTER BncK INCLUOING 

BOTTOM FACING OR HEM 

a BUST . 

.3 UN DER RF«,M . 

4 Vv/RIST 

5 NECK 

6 WIDTH OF BOCK 

V SMOULCJER LENGTH 

8 ARM CUKVE 

9 CORT I30TTOI^ \A/iDTH \NCLUOlNG 
I INCH FOR PlRCKET __ 



...34. IN. 
_ _11 IN. 

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MERSUREMENTS BACK POFTriON 

MENS VEST 

1 LENGTH 0FBRCKlNCLUDlNG3,NB0TT0N CURVE FRCINGPO'/P 

2 BUST ._^11 IM '^ 

3 UNOERBRM Bin. 

4 WfllST 10 IN 

5 NECK s/aiN. /' ""-0~--^7 

6 WIDTH OF BRCK 9'/2 IN. / 

7 SHOULDER l-ENGTH^.T IN 

8 ARM CURVE- S'/aiN 

9 V£5T BOTTOro 11 IN 

ENTIRE BU5r 4-^-1 N. / ' A> 

^ 4 / 




MEOSUKEMENTS FRONT PORTION 



LENGTH OF FRONT. _ iRiN 

BUST v;:v::;,::::-;i ^: 

IJNOER.BRM - -_ _ a \N 

^•^'ST ;_,-3 1^; 



1 
a 

3 
4 

5 FRONT TEST MERSUKe_. . 23 ||s|, 

6 SHOULDER PO\NT— . . 23 IN. 

y NECK CURVE ^_ _" ^11 iM 

8 SHOULDER. LENGTH " -^IN, 

9 PiKM curve: ^11 IN 




MRKETHE UNiN&FORTHe: FRCING fiNJO FORTH E VEST 3Y 

USING RT.^f\ClN&wHEEl_OVER the: Qr^fil-riNG- FIRST 
PLh^CING PLRIN V-RPEK. UNDERNEATH DRaFTlNR . 
MEN5 V£5T0R0Vx;NRcC0RO1N& tqtHE PRINCIPLES OF 
COPYRVGHTEO f^BNUflLOFftPPeREUORnF-riNGRNO 
■oEWiNG BY l^RS IMRTTIE G. KUNZ. 



-TT5-I'' 



/7 



lien' a pants. 

Waist measure — 38 inches. 
Length of pants -45 " 
Center front — 13-^ inches. 
Center back — 19 " 
Entire hip for one leg 
measuring from a point 12 
inches down — 30 inches. 
Knee — 22 in. Ankle - 19^ in. 

Fly -- 



Dravm on a scale of one-eight of an inch to 
represent an inch, which suits the size of 
this book. Drawn according to the principles 
of copyrighted Manual of Apparel Drafting and 

Sewing, by 

18 inches. _^ 

Krs. Idattie G. Kunz. 



■^ belt measurement. 2^ 




Buckle straps. 

Measurements for pante. 
Take waist measure around 
the body at waist over 
pants and under vest; 
waistline is just above 
hip bones. Also take 
side length of pants from 
side waist measure to de- 
sired length of pants; also 
take the measurement of 
widest as well as the most 
narrow portion of the leg. 
Take knee measurem.ent . Also 
take measurement from center 
front waist measure dcm to 
top inside leg pants* seam, 
and also take measure from 
this top inside leg pants' seam 
down close to the heel of the 
shoe. Also take measure from 
back center waist to top inside 
leg pants' seam. The front 
portion of men's pants is drawn 
about 2 inches smaller than the 
back portion. In making, sew 
four straps to top of pants to 
hold belt; also sew buttons for 
suspenders, if desired, liake in- 
visible button holes on facing for 
upper left portion. Good pressing 
in pants'making is necessary, and 
the latest touch is a crease to be 
pressed in each center front por- 
tion and each center back portion. 
(All measurements, except waist 
measure are taken loosely, to al- 
lov/ for movement of the body.) 



Notches show where the pattern is to be joined together, klake pattern 
5 inches longer at bottom and about 1-J- inches wider than ainkle measurement. 



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Fancy apron 
and 

Sweeping cap. ^ ' 

Head measure 23^ 
inches, which must 
equal the circumference 
1/3 of 23|- equals 
7 5/6 the diameter, on 
the 1/4 inch basis seal 
■| of 7 5/6 equals 
3 11/12 on the I/8 
inch basis scale; 
■| of 3 ll/'l2 equals 

I 23/24 or 1 and I5/I6 
of an inch on the 
1/16 inch basis scale. 

Band for cap. 
■4- of band equals 

II 3/4 inches. By 
the l/'^6 inch scale, 
i*- is 2 15/16 as 
here shov/n. 

I 2.-15/16 



Description. 
Cook apron. Drawn on a 
scale of I/I6 of an 
inch. Figures shown on 
diagram represent 
actual inches. Cut where the dash 
lines are shown, to give extra full- 
ness. Fold on the crossvise of the 
goods and fold it so as to get the 
length of the garment. Fold again 
in the center of lengthwise of the 
goods which makes no seam on the 
shoulder or front or back. If open- 
ing is desired on the side (as shown 
on diagram) use a tracing wheel to 
extract the pattern for the overlap, 
and cut to come on the left side, 
place small pocket on the right side, 
and large pocket on right side of 
apron-skirt. Place two half inch 
pleats at top center back neck if 
opening is made on the side, or 
make opening in the back if desired. 
iJlake seams on each side. Neck 
measure is drafted by circumference 
method, 2\ being the radius in this 
case. Goods 46 inches wide will 
make the neatest garment, having no 
gore to add in the goods of the 
apron-skirt. If the goods is white make drafting on it with- 
out a pattern except for the overlap, by simply using the 
figures on small diagram. The measurements are as follows: 
:;eck 15 inches. Front chest 15. V/ai st 40. Hip 52. Skirt 
length 35. Entire bottom being 92 inches. \ of bottom, 
equals 20 plus 3 inches. Drawn according to the principles 
of copyrighted Manual of Apparel Drafting and Sewing, 
by Mrs. Mattie G. Kunz, Washington, D. C. 



Observe that in this iianual measurements are taken according to an 
Order of Ueasurements, and are seldom taken in larger fractions than I/4, 
1/2, and 3/4 of an inch, but calculations are made resulting in the form of 
l/e, 1/4, 1/3, 1/2, 3/4, and sometimes I/I6 of an inch, as the American inch 
divides into 16 equal parts, thus enabling one to draw easily miniature 
methodical patterns. But when a calculation runs into thirds, or any uneven 
number — for instance take l/s of an inch — l/s of an inch is 5-I/3/I6 of an 
inch, whereas 5/15 of an inch is only 5/16 of an inch and not quite l/S of 
an inch, then one should, with a sharp pencil, make the nearest properly 
located point between one of the four spaces that is shown on the l/4 inch 
basis implement inclosed in the pocket of this book. 

Many advantages are claimed for the Iv'etric System, but the American inch 
is most suited for garment drafting on the l/4 and l/2 inch basis plan. For 
example, 1/4 of an inch is equal to a little over 6 millimeters, as about 25 
millimeters is equal to the American inch. l/2 of an inch is equal to a little 
over 12 millimeters. As there are 10 millimeters to a centimeter, if is ap- 
parent that it would be difficult to make a l/4 centimeter basis implement. 
The yard equals 36 inches and the meter equals 39.37 inches. The linear 
measure of the Metric System is as follows: 10 millimeters equals 1 centimeter, 
10 centimeters equals 1 decimeter, 10 decimeters equals 1 meter, 10 meters 
equals 1 dekameter, 10 dekameters equals 1 hectometer, 10 hectometers equals 
1 kilometer. 

The following scale shows the portions of the inch that are readily used: 

_•______ ___'__ !________ ___ '_ __ ' 

1/16 1/8 1/4 1/3 1/2 ' 3/4 

To the apt dressmaker, the small methodical pattern drawn on the I/4 inch 
basis plan is sufficient aid to cut the cloth for a full size garment. To do 
this, first stretch a cloth over the cutting table and fasten it, so that the 
goods may be pinned to it now and then, and use pins, chalk, red or blue pencil, 
or a few busting stitches with white or black thread, as the gaods would indi- 
cate, following the figures on the small model, and observing to double the 
cloth when necessary. But if a large Size pattern is desired, use an ordinary ■ 
ruler (or yardstick for skirt), and the large size curvature, following the 
full inch procedure in the book, or if the small size pattern is already 
drafted, use the same figures thereon to produce the full size pattern. 

Another advantage in using the I/4 inch basis implement model work as a 
guide in the manner indicated above is that where there is a design or stripe 
in the goods one may observe better how to keep the design or stripe in its 
proper position while cutting out the cloth. 



i 



MEASURE 
BOOK 



Name 

Residence 

Order of measurements for the easy 
drafting solution. 

Basque 

1 L/eiiKth of back 

2 Underarm 

3 Bust 

4 Neck 

5 Width of back 

6 Shoulder in length 

7 Waist 

8 Entire front measure 

9 Width of chest 

10 Shoulder line 

11 Shoulder point 

12 Front test measure 

13 Around the form over the hips. . . 

Sleeve 

1 Take inside lengrth of arm at front , 

2 Top of arm around it 

3 From Ji the way from inside length 

of arm measure on top of arm 
measure up to the end of shoul- 
der point measure, as shown by 
dotted line on diagram 

4 Elbow, around it 

5 Wrist, around it 

Skirt 

1 Around the waist at belt line 

2 Around the hips 

3 Down front the desired length... 

4 Down back the desired length. . . . 

5 Down side over the hips 



Name 

Residence 

Order of measnrements for the advanced coarse. 

Basque 

1 Length of back 

2 Under-arm 

3 Biist measure 

4 Arm-hole 

5 Arm-curve of arm-hole 

This measure is solved arithme- 
tically, in the progress of the 
drafting 

6 Width of back 

7 Shoulder in length 

8 Neck measure 

9 Waist Measure 

10 Width of chest 

11 Entire front measure 

12 Shoulder line 

13 Shoulder point 

(Remember shoulder in length, 

shoulder line, and shoulderpoiiit 
are three separate order of 
measurements). 

14 Front test measure 

l.S Hip measure, around the form in 

adults, about si.x inches below 
the waist line 

Sleeve 

1 Take inside length of arm at front 

2 Top of arm around it 

3 From Jj the way from inside length 

of arm on top of arm measure, 
as shown bj- dotted line on dia- 
gram 

4 Elbow, around it 

5 Wrist, around it 

Skirt 

1 Around the waist at belt line 

2 Around the hips 

3 Down front the desired length. . . . 

4 Down back the desired length. . . . 

5 Down side over the hips 



Name 

Residence 

Order of measurements for tlie easy 
drafting solution. 

Basque 

1 Lenji^th of back 

2 Under- arm 

3 Bust 

4 Neck 

5 Width of back 

6 Shoulder in leng-th 

7 Waist 

8 Entire front measure 

9 Width of chest 

10 Shoulder line 

11 Shoulder point 

12 Front test measure 

13 Around the form over the hips. . . 

Sleeve 

1 Take inside length of arm at front . 

2 Top of arm around it 

3 From ^3 the way from inside length 

of arm measure on top of arm 
measure up to the end of shoul- 
der point measure, as shown by 
dotted line on diagram 

4 Elbow, around it 

5 Wrist, around it 

Skirt 

1 Around the waist at belt line 

2 Around the hips 

3 Down front the desired length... 

4 Down back the desired length. . . . 

5 Down side over the hips 



Name 

Residence 

Order of measurements for the advanced coarse. 

Basque 

1 Length of back 

2 Under-arni 

3 Bust measure 

4 Arm-hole 

5 Arm-curve of arm-hole 

This measure is solved arithme- 
tically, in the progress of the 
drafting- 

6 Width of back 

7 Shoulder in length 

8 Neck measure 

9 Waist Measure 

10 Width of chest 

11 Entire front measure 

12 Shoulder line 

13 Shoulder point 

(Remember shoulder in length, 

shoulder line, and shoulderpoint 
are three separate order of 
measurements). 

14 Front test measure 

15 Hip measure, around the form in 

adults, about six inches below 
the waist line 

Sleeve 

1 Take inside length of arm at front 

2 Top of arm around it 

3 From ~i the way from insidelength 

of arm on top of arm measure, 
as shown by dotted line on dia- 
gram 

4 Elbow, around it 

5 Wrist, arou nd it 

Skirt 

1 Around the waist at belt line 

2 Around the hips 

3 Down front the desired length. . . . 

4 Down back the desired length.... 

5 Down side over the hips 



Name 

Residence 

Order of meaiurements for the easy 
drafting lolotion. 

Basque 

1 Lengfth of back 

2 Underarm 

3 Bust 

4 Neck 

5 Width of back 

6 Shoulder in length 

7 Waist 

8 Entire front measure 

9 Width of chest 

10 Shoulder line 

11 Shoulder point 

12 Front test measure 

13 Around the form over the hips. . . 

Sleeve 

1 Take inside leng-th of arm at front. 

2 Top of arm around it 

3 From 73 the way from inside length 

of arm measure on top of arm 
measure up to the end of shoul- 
der point measure, as shown by 
dotted line on diagram 

4 Elbow, around it 

5 Wrist, around it 

Skirt 

1 Around the waist at belt line 

2 Around the hips 

3 Down front the desired length... 

4 Down back the desired length 

5 Down side over the hips 



1 



Name 

Kesidence 

Order of measurements for the advanced course. 

Basque 

1 Length of bmk 

2 Uiider-arm 

3 Bust measure 

4 Arm-hole 

5 Arm-curve of arm-hole 

This measure is solved arithme- 
tically, in the progress of the 
drafting 

6 Width of back 

7 Shoulder in length 

8 Neck measure 

9 Waist Measure 

10 Width of chest . 

11 Entire front measure 

12 Shoulder line 

13 Shoulder point 

(Remember shoulder in length, 

shoulder line, and shoulderpoint 
are three separate order of 
measurements). 

14 Front test measure 

15 Hip measure, around the form in 

adults, about six inches below 

the waist line 

Sleeve 

1 Take inside length of arm at front 

2 Top of arm around it 

3 From ?3 the way from insidelength 

of arm on top of arm measure, 
as shown by dotted line on dia- 
gram 

4 Elbow, areiund it 

5 Wrist, around it 

Skirt 

1 Around the waist at belt line 

2 Around the hips 

3 Down front the desired length. . . . 

4 Down back the desired length. . . . 
,S Down side over the hips 



Name 

Residence 

Order oi measorementt for the eaty 
drafting tolution. 

Basque 

1 L/enffth of back 

2 Underarm 

3 Bust 

4 Neck 

5 Width of back 

6 Shoulder in leng-th 

7 Waist 

8 Entire front measure 

9 Width of chest 

10 Shoulder line 

11 Shoulder point 

12 Front test measure 

13 Around the form over the hips. . . 

Sleeve 

1 Take inside leng-th of arm at front . 

2 Top of arm around it 

3 From % the way from inside length 

of arm measure on top of arm 
measure up to the end of shoul- 
der point measure, as shown by 
dotted line on diagram 

4 Elbow, around it 

5 Wrist, around it 

Skirt 

1 Around the waist at belt line 

2 Around the hips 

3 Down front the desired length... 

4 Down back the desired leng-th. . . . 

5 Down side over the hips 



Name 

Residence 

Order of measurements for the advanced coarse. 

Basque 

1 Length of back 

2 Under-arm 

3 Bust measure 

4 Arm-hole 

5 Arm-curve of arm-hole 

This measure is solved arithme- 
tically, in the progress of the 
drafting 

6 Width of back : 

7 Shoulder in length 

8 Neck measure 

9 Waist Measure 

10 Width of chest 

11 Entire front measure 

12 Shoulder line 

13 Shoulder point 

(Remember shoulder in length, 

shoulder line, and shoulder point 
are three separate order of 
measurements). 

14 Front test measure 

15 Hip measure, around the form in 

adults, about six inches below 
ist line 

Sleeve 

1 Take inside length of arm at front 

2 Top of arm around it 

3 From ^3 the way from insidelength 

of arm on top of arm measure, 
as shown by dotted line on dia- 
gram 

4 Elbow, around it 

5 Wrist, around it 

Skirt 

1 Around the waist at belt line 

2 Around the hips 

3 Down front the desired length. . . . 

4 Down back the desired length. , . . 

5 Down side over the hips 



Name 

Residence ..■.•...■.- 

Order of measurements for the easy 
drafting solution. 

Basque 

1 L,eiiHrlh of biick 

2 Under arm 

3 Bust 

4 Neck 

5 Width of back 

6 Shoulder in lenijrth 

7 Waist 

8 Entire front measure 

9 Width of chest 

10 Shoulder line 

11 Shoulder point 

12 Front test measure 

13 Around the form over the hips... 

Sleeve 

1 Take inside leng'th of arm at front . 

2 Top of arm around it 

3 From fi the way from inside length 

of arm measure on top of arm 
measure up to the end of shoul- 
der point measure, as shown by 
dotted line on diagram 

4 Elbow, around it 

5 Wrist, around it 

Skirt 

1 Around the waist at belt line 

2 Around the hips 

3 Down front the desired length... 

4 Down back the desired length 

5 Down side over the hips 



I 



Name 

Kesidence 

Order of measurements (or the advanced course. 

Basque 

1 Length of back 

2 Under-arin 

3 Bust measure 

4 Arm-hole 

5 Arm-curve of arm-hole 

This measure is solved arithme- 
tically, in the progress of the 
drafting 

6 Width of back 

7 Shoulder in length 

8 Neck measure 

9 Waist Measure 

10 Width of chest. 

11 Entire front measure 

12 Shoulder line 

13 Shoulder point 

(Remember shoulder in length, 

shoulder line, and shoulderpoint 
are three separate order of 
measurements). 

14 Front test measure 

15 Hip measure, around the form in 

adults, about six inches below 

ist line 

Sleeve 

1 Take inside length of arm at front 

2 Top of arm around it 

3 From ^3 the way from insidelength 

of arm on top of arm measure, 
as shown by dotted line on dia- 
gram 

4 Elbow, around it 

5 Wrist, around it 

Skirt 

1 Around the waist at belt line 

2 Around the hips 

3 Down front the desired length 

4 Down back the desired length. . . . 

5 Down side over the hips 



Name ■ 

Residence 

Order oi measurements for the easy 
drafting solution. 

Basque 

1 Length of back 

2 Under- arm 

3 Bust 

4 Neck 

5 Width of back 

6 Shoulder in length 

7 Waist 

8 Entire front measure 

9 Width of chest 

10 Shoulder line 

11 Shoulder point 

12 Front test measure 

13 Around the form over the hips. . 

Sleeve 

1 Take inside leng-th of arm at front . 

2 Top of arm around it 

3 From ^j the way from inside length 

of arm measure on top of arm 
measure up to the end of shoul- 
der point measure, as shown by 
dotted line oil diagram 

4 Elbow, around it 

5 Wrist, around it 

Skirt 

1 Around the waist at bolt line 

2 Around the hips 

3 Down front the desired length... 

4 Down buck the desired length. . . . 

5 Down side over the hips 



Name 

Residence 

Order of measurementi for the advanced coarse. 

Basque 

1 Length of back 

2 Under-arm 

3 Bust measure 

4 Arm-hole 

5 Arm-curve of arm-hole 

This measure is solved arithme- 
tically, in the progress of the 
drafting 

6 Width of back 

7 Shoulder in length 

8 Neck measure 

9 Waist Measure 

10 Width of chest. 

11 Entire front measure 

12 Shoulder line 

13 Shoulder point 

(Remember shoulder in length, 

shoulder line, and shoulder point 
are three separate order of 
measurements). 

14 Front test measure 

15 Hip measure, around the form in 

adults, about six inches below 
ist line 

Sleeve 

1 Take inside length of arm at front 

2 Top of arm around it 

3 From % the way from insidelength 

of arm on top of arm measure, 
as shown by dotted line on dia- 
gram 

4 Elbow, around it 

5 Wrist, around it 

Skirt 

1 Around the waist at belt line 

2 Around the hips 

3 Down front the desired length 

4 Down back the desired length. . . . 

5 Down side over the hips. .'. 



Xanie 

Residence 

Order of measuremcDts for the easy 
drafting solution. 

Basque 

1 Lensrth of back 

2 Under- arm 

3 Bust 

4 Neck 

5 Width of hack 

6 Shoulder in lenijfth 

7 Waist 

8 Entire front measure 

9 Width of chest 

10 Shoulder line 

11 Shoulder point 

12 Front test measure 

13 Around the form over the hips... 

Sleeve 

1 Take inside lenjfth of arm at front . 

2 Top of arm around it 

3 From -3 the way from inside lenjifth 

of arm measure on top of arm 
measure up to the end of shoul- 
der point measure, as sliown by 
dotted line on diagram 

4 Elbow, around it 

5 Wrist, around it 

Skirt 

1 Around the waist at belt line. . .. 

2 Around the hips 

3 Down front the desired length... 

4 Down back the desired length. . . . 

5 Down side over the hips 



Name 

Kesidence 

Order of measurements for the advanced conrse. 

Basque 

1 Length of back 

2 Under-arm 

3 Bust measure 

4 Arm-hole 

5 Arm-curve of arm-hole 

This measure is solved arithme- 
tically, in the progress of the 
drafting- 

6 Width of back 

7 Shoulder in length 

8 Neck measure 

9 Waist Measure 

10 Width of chest 

11 Entire front measure 

12 Shoulder line 

13 Shoulder point 

(Remember shoulder in length, 

shoulder line, and shoulder point 
are three separate order of 
measurements). 

14 Front test measure 

15 Hip measure, around the form in 

adults, about six inches below 
ist line 

Sleeve 

1 Take inside length of arm at front 

2 Top of arm around it 

3 From ^'3 the vpay from inside length 

of arm on top of arm measure, 
as shown by dotted line on dia- 
gram 

4 Elbow, around it 

5 Wrist, around it 

Skirt 

1 Around the waist at belt line 

2 Around the hips 

3 Down front the desired length. . . . 

4 Down back the desired length .... 

5 Down side over the hips 



il 




This envelope pocket is made as a convenient place to keep the implements 
in good condition after they have been cut out of the cardboard, also the measure 
book. The large size paper curvature may be placed in the pocket after folding it. 

If mucilage is put on the back of the lai'ge size paper curvature, a piece of 
paperhanger's canvas stretched over it, and when dry the canvas trimmed even 
with the curvature with scissors, it will prevert the curvature from getting torn. 

Any paper patterns drafted and desired to be used frequently, or preserved, 
may also be strengthened in this way by the use of canvas. 



m 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




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014 060 189 58 



